ALLERGY TO COSMETICS: WHAT CAN CAUSE THE REACTION?
Among hair products, permanent hair dyes are the commonest cause of allergy. They often contain a highly allergenic chemical, PPDA. You should always follow the advice on the packet of these dyes to patch-test behind the ear or on the forearm 24-48 hours before using. If a hairdresser is to apply the dye for you, make sure that you patch-test 24-48 hours before the appointment. Semi-permanent dyes and temporary rinses are also known to cause reactions. Henna, a vegetable dye, is not reported to cause allergic eczema or dermatitis, but can cause sneezing, nasal symptoms and asthma.
If you bleach your hair, ammonium persulphate is added to hydrogen peroxide to speed up the process. Ammonium persulphate is highly irritant and has been reported to cause immediate reactions such as facial swelling, asthma and hives. Irritant eczema can also result if the solution is left on too long.
Permanent wave solutions are known to cause reactions, but the cause is most usually the perfume used to disguise the unpleasant smell of the ingredients. The ingredients of the waving solution and neutralisers themselves can sometimes irritate and cause allergy. Alkaline solutions (for home and salon use, with ammonium thioglyco-late as the waving solution) are reported to cause reactions less often than acid solutions (using glyceryl thioglycolate – salon use only) or sulfite wave (using sodium sulfite – home use only).
Lanolin is a natural fatty substance obtained from the fleece of sheep. It is a complex material, the chemical composition of which varies greatly in purity; and the reaction of people with allergy or sensitivity varies correspondingly to different brands or preparations. It is commonly found in cosmetic products such as cleansers, ointments, hand creams, soaps, lipsticks and hair products. People sensitive to lanolin can sometimes tolerate one lanolin preparation but not another. Some cosmetic brands and moisturisers are either lanolin-free or use new purified lanolin which is often better tolerated. To avoid problems, use hypoallergenic brands, try different brands to find one that suits, and write to the manufacturer if necessary to find lanolin-free products in their range.
Other ingredients known to cause sensitivity and allergy include resins in nail polishes, some dyes used in blushers and lipsticks, and propylene glycol which acts as a solvent and preservative, and keeps products moist. It is also an ingredient in lubricating jelly.
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